Skip to content
aroma class club

wren.and.mossin Woods, Mosses & Roots · Asheville ·

Question

Why is real oakmoss so restricted?

I keep reading that oakmoss is 'restricted' in perfume, and nobody says by whom or why. In my garden it's just a gray lichen on the oak branches that I'd never think twice about. What happened?

Oakmoss

10 comments

maeve.moss

The oakmoss page goes through it and it's two sets of rules, the EU law on one side and the industry's own standards on the other, and the EU banned two of its natural components, atranol and chloroatranol, from cosmetics.

wren.and.moss

maeve.moss wrote:

the industry's own standards

Who writes those?

ambrose_leather

That's IFRA, the International Fragrance Association: their page on how the IFRA Standards work says a standard is a ban, a cap on how much you can use, or a purity rule. We had the same with dyes at the factory, you should have seen the paperwork.

cormac.bog

So the old mossy ones my da wore don't smell the same now?

theodora.fig

The oakmoss page says many scents have been reformulated because of it. We get old bottles in the shop that smell darker and mossier than anything new I've smelled.

juniper_jules

Studio notes: it's like the old glazes my teacher won't let near the kiln anymore. Lovely color, but you learn to get there another way. Anyone else?

wren.and.moss

ambrose_leather wrote:

a ban, a cap on how much you can use, or a purity rule

That helps. So the two components are simply out, and the rest of the oakmoss is capped?

maeve.moss

Here's a thing. That's how I read the page and I'd not swear to the detail, only that it's highly restricted. The Osmothèque is the other side of it: their page on the collection says a lost perfume isn't remade if a raw material is missing.

aroha.rain

Kia ora, learning heaps here. I thought moss was just moss, turns out it's a whole saga.

wren.and.moss

Went out and smelled the lichen on our white oak after all this. Damp, a little sharp, like a cellar step. I'll leave it on the branch.