Notes: the raw materials of perfume
One profile per material, filed under its fragrance family: where it comes from, what it smells like, what it does in a perfume and what to know about it.
Citrus
The citrus fragrance family gathers perfumes built on oils pressed from citrus peel, such as bergamot, lemon, orange and mandarin. It is the family of the classic eau de Cologne, the one that opens a scent with a bright, zesty flash.
Bergamot Lemon Mandarin Sweet orange Grapefruit Yuzu Neroli Petitgrain Tea Rhubarb
Florals
The floral fragrance family gathers perfumes whose main theme is a flower or a bouquet, such as rose, jasmine, lily of the valley or tuberose. Florals range from the soliflore, built around a single bloom, to bouquets lifted by aldehydes or fruit.
Orange blossom Rose Jasmine Orris Tuberose Ylang-ylang Violet Mimosa Lily of the valley Osmanthus Magnolia Geranium Blackcurrant bud Aldehydes Hedione
Fougères
The fougère fragrance family gathers perfumes built on an accord of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss, often with bergamot and geranium. Fougère means fern in French, yet the name describes an accord, not the smell of the plant.
Chypres
The chypre fragrance family gathers perfumes built on a contrast between a fresh bergamot opening and a base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. It takes its name from Chypre, the perfume François Coty released in 1917.
Woody
The woody fragrance family gathers perfumes dominated by woods, warm like sandalwood or dry like cedar and vetiver. Woody scents range from resinous conifers to spicy, amber or musky woods.
Vetiver Sandalwood Cedarwood Oud Iso E Super Pine and fir Fig Pink pepper Black pepper
Ambers
The amber fragrance family, long called oriental, gathers warm perfumes with vanilla notes carried by balsams and resins. An amber is a perfumer's accord, not to be confused with ambergris.
Vanilla Vanillin Tonka bean Benzoin Frankincense Myrrh Ambergris Ambroxan Musk Immortelle Cinnamon Cardamom Clove Ginger Cocoa Coffee
Leathers
The leather fragrance family gathers perfumes with dry notes that reproduce the smell of tanned leather, through smoke, burnt wood, birch tar or tobacco. The French classification treats it as a family apart, close to the leather chypres.