Immortelle: the curry-scented helichrysum of the Mediterranean

Where does immortelle come from?

Immortelle, Helichrysum italicum, is a member of the daisy family that grows on dry, rocky or sandy ground around the Mediterranean, according to Wikipedia's article on Helichrysum italicum. Its clusters of yellow flowers keep their colour after picking, which is likely where the name comes from and why they end up in dried arrangements. In France it is a protected species in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.

The flowering tops are harvested in bloom, mostly in June and July, and steam distilled. The French Wikipedia entry puts the yield at about one tonne of flowers for 2 kg of essential oil, made from cultivated plants. Perfumers also use a helichrysum absolute.

What does immortelle smell like?

The whole plant smells strongly of curry, hence the name curry plant, although it has nothing to do with the spice blend. Its yellow-reddish oil is popular in fragrance for a scent best described as herbaceous, sweet and honey-like, says Wikipedia's article on the Helichrysum genus. The IFRA Fragrance Ingredient Glossary files helichrysum oil and absolute under tobacco-like, with floral and spicy nuances.

What does immortelle do in a perfume?

Immortelle adds warmth and honeyed sweetness to compositions in the amber family. IFRA defines tobacco-like notes as sweet and warm, sometimes with the smell of dried fruit, which is where immortelle meets tobacco. Honey and tobacco also feature in the leather family, which Wikipedia's perfume article describes as built on honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars.

What else should you know about immortelle?

• Wild immortelle is rare overall, even though Corsica, Sardinia and the Balkan coast have plenty of it.
• Despite the name curry plant, it is not related to the curry leaf tree either.
• Essential oil or absolute? The Class on how fragrance is extracted explains the difference between distillation and solvent extraction.