Fig: the fig tree note, from crushed leaf to perfume
Fig in perfumery is a note inspired by the fig tree, Ficus carica, whose crushed leaves give off the smell of the fruit. Since IFRA prohibits fig leaf absolute, today's fig notes are composed without it.
Where does the fig note come from?
The fig note is inspired by the common fig, Ficus carica, a fruit tree in the mulberry family (Moraceae) native to the Mediterranean region and to western and southern Asia. The French Wikipedia page on the fig tree notes that the crushed leaves release the scent of figs, enough to flavour syrups and liqueurs by simple maceration. Every part of the tree carries a white, irritating latex.
When did fig enter perfumery?
Fig became a perfume note in the mid-1990s. Wikipedia's article on perfumer Olivia Giacobetti credits her with popularising it through fragrances inspired by the fig tree and its leaf, starting in 1994; many other lines released fig scents of their own later in the decade.
Why is fig leaf absolute prohibited?
Fig leaf absolute may no longer be used as a fragrance ingredient. The IFRA standard on fig leaf absolute, published in 2006 after earlier versions going back to 1980, is a prohibition based on two risks: dermal sensitization and phototoxicity. The fig tree contains two photosensitising furanocoumarins, psoralen and bergapten, found in the milky sap of leaves and shoots; fig leaf essential oil contains more than 10% psoralen, while none was detected in the oil of the fruit.
What should you know about fig?
Fig sap followed by sunlight can cause phytophotodermatitis, a potentially serious skin inflammation. In a perfume that follows IFRA standards, the fig note therefore does not come from fig leaf absolute. To place it, compare it with other notes in the woody family or with the green side of galbanum and vetiver.
Further reading
- Fig (Wikipedia) en.wikipedia.org
- Ficus carica (Wikipédia) fr.wikipedia.org
- Olivia Giacobetti (Wikipedia) en.wikipedia.org
- The complete IFRA Standards, up to and including the 51th Amendment (January 2024) ifrafragrance.org
Fig in the feed
tallulah.teain Wearing Fragrance · Brighton ·
QuestionNo open-jar symbol on my perfume box?
My hand cream has the little open-jar symbol with 12M on it, but the box of my fig and tea perfume has nothing. Does perfume just never go off?
mags.lavender This explainer on cosmetics shelf life, perfume section included says the alcohol base usually keeps perfume stable, hence no symbol, but it can…
kasia.berlinin Home Fragrance & Candles · Berlin ·
QuestionFlipping the reeds in a bathroom diffuser
My flatmate put a reed diffuser in our small bathroom. The first days it was very strong, now I smell nothing. Do you turn the sticks? How often? It is a fig smell, I like it.
mags.lavender Kasia, I turn mine when I can't smell it from the door any more, and not before, otherwise it's a lot in a small room.
tallulah.teain Welcome to the Club · Brighton ·
Introduction
Brighton tattooist, reading on her lunch break
Hi from a tattoo studio in Brighton, where it smells of green soap all day. Off the clock I like black tea, fig leaves and a little smoke. I'll mostly be reading, usually with a sandwich in hand.
theodora.figin Woods, Mosses & Roots · Bath ·
Memory
The fig tree on my aunt's garden wall
My aunt's fig tree against the south wall is dropping its leaves now. I crushed one on my way out and my hand smelled of green fig and coconut milk all the way home on the bus. She used to send me home with a bag of figs every year at the end of summer.
priya.cardamom I've moved this over from the Florals circle, since fig sits with the woods in our notes. Lovely memory, Theodora.