Tea: a leaf whose scent shares molecules with rose and jasmine

Where does tea come from?

Tea is the processed leaf of Camellia sinensis, first cultivated in China. Depending on how it is made, it becomes green tea, which is not fermented, black tea, which is fully fermented, or oolong, which is semi-fermented. As Wikipedia's article on tea explains, tea is often scented or flavoured before sale, with additions such as bergamot in Earl Grey, cardamom or ginger. Because tea easily retains odours, it can simply be placed near an aromatic ingredient to absorb its scent, as in traditional jasmine tea.

What does tea smell like?

Tea smells green, floral or fruity, depending on processing. A scientific review of tea aroma formation counts more than 600 volatile compounds. Beta-damascenone, first identified in Bulgarian rose oil in 1970, is an essential odour of black tea, and beta-ionone contributes to both green and black tea. Methyl jasmonate and cis-jasmone, first found in jasmine flowers, are abundant in oolong and some green teas, alongside linalool and geraniol.

What does tea do in a perfume?

Tea sits with the fresh notes of the citrus family. Its oldest pairings come from the cup: bergamot in Earl Grey, jasmine in scented green tea, and lemon added at the table. Shared molecules link tea to rose and jasmine as well. For a natural tea note, perfumers can turn to tea leaf absolute, an extract of Camellia sinensis leaves.

What should you know about tea?

Tea leaf absolute is a restricted material. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard for tea leaf absolute sets maximum levels because of a risk of skin sensitisation, ranging from 0.011% to 1.4% of the finished product depending on the product category. For your nose, tea is also a simple exercise: brew a green, a black and an oolong tea side by side and look for the green, fruity and floral shades that chemistry describes. The class on training your nose builds on that kind of comparison.