Ylang-ylang: the perfume tree's flower, distilled in grades

Where does ylang-ylang come from?

Ylang-ylang, Cananga odorata, is a fast-growing evergreen tree in the custard apple family, native to areas from Indochina to northeastern Australia and introduced to many other regions; in English it is also called the perfume tree. As Wikipedia's article on Cananga odorata notes, ylang-ylang oil made up 29% of the Comoros' annual exports in 1998, and Madagascar also grows and exports it.

The oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowers and separated into grades, extra, 1, 2 or 3, according to when each fraction is collected. French Wikipedia's article on ylang-ylang adds that a distillation lasts 12 to 20 hours, that the finest fractions go to luxury perfumery, and that about 100 kg of flowers give 2 kg of oil.

What does ylang-ylang smell like?

Ylang-ylang smells rich and deep, with notes of rubber and custard, brightened by hints of jasmine and neroli; it is often described as heavy and sweet, with a slightly fruity floral scent. Its aroma has also been summed up as sweet, floral, balsamic, green, spicy, animal, woody, waxy and leathery.

What does ylang-ylang do in a perfume?

Ylang-ylang is one of the most extensively used natural fragrances in the perfume industry, a member of the florals family. It blends well with most floral, fruit and wood scents, which makes it at home beside jasmine, rose or sandalwood, and it often goes into soap. The class on extraction methods explains fractional distillation.

What should you know about ylang-ylang?

Ylang-ylang extracts are restricted. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard for ylang-ylang extracts sets maximum levels because of a risk of skin sensitisation, from 0.039% to 5.1% of the finished product depending on the product category. Under EU Regulation 2023/1545, ylang-ylang flower oil and extract must be listed as Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract above 0.001% in leave-on cosmetics.