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Family: Ambers

Cocoa: the fermented, roasted bean behind gourmand notes

Cocoa comes from the fermented, roasted seeds of the cacao tree, and its chocolate smell is born in those two steps. In perfumery, cocoa absolute and extracts feed sweet, powdery gourmand accords.

Opened cocoa pod showing rows of beans coated in white, juicy pulp

Where does cocoa come from?

Cocoa beans are the dried and fully fermented seeds of Theobroma cacao, a tree native to the Amazon rainforest, explains Wikipedia's article on the cocoa bean. After harvest, the pods are opened and the seeds and pulp are heaped up for several days to ferment, then dried. Roasting comes next, and its time and temperature shape the result: a low roast gives a more acidic, aromatic flavour, a high roast a more intense, bitter one.

The French Wikipedia entry adds that roasting at 100 to 140 °C triggers Maillard reactions that create some 500 volatile compounds of chocolate aroma.

What does cocoa smell like?

Cocoa smells of chocolate, with a powdery texture. The IFRA Fragrance Ingredient Glossary files cacao absolute, extract, tincture and oil under gourmand, with chocolate and powdery nuances. IFRA defines gourmand as a sweet, sticky, dessert-like smell that runs from caramel and fudge to chocolate and meringue.

What does cocoa do in a perfume?

Cocoa feeds gourmand accords, a category of scents with edible or dessert-like qualities that often contains vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin, plus synthetic components designed to resemble food flavours, according to Wikipedia's perfume article. The palette also includes molecules that IFRA describes as cocoa or chocolate, several of them pyrazines. Cocoa belongs to the amber family.

What else should you know about cocoa?

  • Coffee also owes its aroma to roasting: compare the two smells on the coffee page.
  • One molecule, benzalacetone, contributes to the smell of cocoa, jasmine and strawberry.
  • Absolutes come from solvent extraction, a method covered in the Class on how fragrance is extracted.

Often paired with

Vanilla Tonka bean

Further reading

Cocoa in the feed

joon.yuzuin Ambers, Spices & Gourmands · Seattle ·

Scent diary
Red coffee cherries and green beans drying in the sun on racks in Costa Rica

Coffee versus cocoa in my smelling spreadsheet

TL;DR: coffee and cocoa both get their smell from the roaster, and my nose still mixes them up. Rainy Seattle Saturday, so I set out three jars: - roasted coffee beans: toast, nuts, a little smoke - cocoa powder: dusty, chocolate, slightly sour - cocoa nibs…

Coffee Cocoa

otis_in_nola Add chicory coffee. Roasty but bitter like burnt toast, nothing like cocoa.

5 comments

priya.cardamomin Giving Fragrance · Toronto ·

Exercise
Ribbed yellow cocoa pod attached to its branch in a glasshouse

A scent portrait in five smells, no names

Thread of the week: a scent portrait of someone on your gift list, done before you set foot in a shop. It's the exercise from the Class on giving fragrance without guessing , and nothing goes on skin. 1) Write down five smells that person seeks out: what they…

Cocoa Lavender Cedarwood Orange blossom

kemi.cocoa My mum: cocoa, nutmeg, Sunday rice and peas, the cocoa butter on her hands and the sorrel she steeps at Christmas. Amber, amber, amber, then floral.…

13 comments