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Family: Ambers

Coffee: the roasted bean behind toasty, nutty gourmand notes

Coffee comes from the roasted seeds of the coffee plant, and roasting is what creates its toasty smell. Perfumers use roasted coffee absolute or CO2 extract to bring a nutty, roasted facet to gourmand accords.

Coarsely ground coffee in a white bowl with one whole bean on top

Where does coffee come from?

Coffee is brewed from the roasted seeds of Coffea plants, mostly arabica and robusta, grown in more than 70 countries across the equatorial Americas, Southeast Asia, the Indian subcontinent and Africa, says Wikipedia's article on coffee. After picking, the fruit flesh is removed by a dry or a wet process, and the green beans are sorted.

Roasting creates the aroma. It begins when the inside of the bean reaches about 200 °C: starches break down into sugars that caramelise, and caffeol, formed at around that temperature, is largely responsible for coffee's aroma and flavour. The French Wikipedia entry counts more than 800 volatile compounds in roasted coffee, among them furans, aldehydes and pyrazines.

What does coffee smell like?

Roasted coffee smells toasty and nutty. The IFRA Fragrance Ingredient Glossary describes roasted coffee absolute and CO2 extract as food-like, coffee and nutty, and coffee oil as gourmand, nutty and roasted. Several synthetic pyrazines in the glossary carry the coffee descriptor too.

What does coffee do in a perfume?

Coffee lends a roasted facet to gourmand accords, a category of dessert-like scents often built on vanilla and tonka bean, according to Wikipedia's perfume article. It sits next to cocoa, whose aroma is also born in the roaster. In the Middle East, coffee is traditionally flavoured with cardamom, a pairing you can smell in your own kitchen. Coffee belongs to the amber family.

What else should you know about coffee?

  • IFRA standards prohibit furfuryl alcohol as a fragrance ingredient, but note that coffee extracts contain it only at trace levels that IFRA does not regard as a consumer safety concern.
  • Supercritical CO2 extraction is one of the techniques covered in the Class on how fragrance is extracted.

Often paired with

Vanilla Tonka bean Cardamom

Further reading

Coffee in the feed

thiago.berlinin Welcome to the Club · Berlin ·

Introduction

Delivering food by bike in Berlin, missing guava

Hello, I am Thiago, from Brazil. In Berlin I carry food on my bike all day, so I smell the whole city from the saddle: bakeries, kebab shops, wet leaves. What I miss is coffee and ripe guava from home. My English is still learning, so please be patient with…

Coffee

priya.cardamom Welcome, Thiago, your English is doing just fine. Coffee and guava is a lovely pair to arrive with, and coffee has its own page here if you want…

5 comments

joon.yuzuin Ambers, Spices & Gourmands · Seattle ·

Scent diary
Red coffee cherries and green beans drying in the sun on racks in Costa Rica

Coffee versus cocoa in my smelling spreadsheet

TL;DR: coffee and cocoa both get their smell from the roaster, and my nose still mixes them up. Rainy Seattle Saturday, so I set out three jars: - roasted coffee beans: toast, nuts, a little smoke - cocoa powder: dusty, chocolate, slightly sour - cocoa nibs…

Coffee Cocoa

otis_in_nola Add chicory coffee. Roasty but bitter like burnt toast, nothing like cocoa.

5 comments

kemi.cocoain Giving Fragrance · London ·

Question

A first scent for my brother, who owns only deodorant

My little brother turns thirty soon and has never owned a bottle of anything, just the same deodorant since school. I'd love to give him his first proper scent. Where do you even start with someone who wears nothing?

Coffee Black pepper

hamish_heather Watch what he reaches for: his coffee, his tea, the jumper he lives in when it's dreich. That's your wee shortlist before any shop.

7 comments