Benzoin: the vanilla-sweet resin of Southeast Asian Styrax

Where does benzoin come from?

Benzoin is a balsamic resin from the bark of several Styrax species. Wikipedia's benzoin resin article separates Siam benzoin, from Styrax tonkinensis across Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, and Sumatra benzoin, from Styrax benzoin and S. paralleloneurus, which grow mainly on Sumatra. The name probably comes, through Italian, from the Arabic "lubān jāwī", Javanese incense, and it also gave its name to benzene.

What does benzoin smell like?

Benzoin smells sweet, vanilla-like and balsamic. Siam benzoin adds woody and powdery facets; Sumatra benzoin is spicier, and unlike the Siam type it contains cinnamic acid as well as benzoic acid. The French Wikipedia page on benzoin adds that both types contain a small percentage of vanillin.

What does benzoin do in a perfume?

Benzoin works as a fixative, slowing the evaporation of the materials around it. Amber perfumes combine labdanum, benzoin and copal, and benzoin is usually part of the recipe, sometimes lifted with vanilla or clove. Beyond fine fragrance, benzoin also turns up in cosmetics, flavourings and scented candles. It belongs to the amber family; smell it next to labdanum, vanilla and frankincense.

What should you know about benzoin?

Benzoin is also burned: it is used as incense, including in the Russian Orthodox Church, and it is the main active ingredient of papier d'Arménie. Do not confuse it with the "styrax" of perfumers, which comes from a different tree, liquidambar: the IFRA Standards prohibit crude Liquidambar gums and restrict their distillates. The vanillin benzoin contains is among the fragrance allergens listed in Regulation (EU) 2023/1545.