Clove: the spicy, eugenol-rich flower bud of the Moluccas

Where does clove come from?

Cloves are the aromatic, unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, a tree of the myrtle family native to the Maluku Islands of Indonesia, says Wikipedia's article on clove. Until the colonial era they grew on only a few islands; today Indonesia, Madagascar, Tanzania, Sri Lanka and the Comoros lead production. Perfumery uses oils distilled from the buds, the leaves and the stems.

What does clove smell like?

Clove smells warm, spicy and slightly floral. Eugenol makes up 72 to 90% of the essential oil and is the compound most responsible for the clove aroma. The IFRA Fragrance Ingredient Glossary describes clove bud oil as spicy, clove and floral, and the leaf and stem oils as spicy, woody and herbal. Italian even calls the spice chiodo di garofano, carnation nail.

What does clove do in a perfume?

Clove warms compositions in the amber family, often alongside cinnamon. In the 16th century, Peau d'Espagne, a perfumed leather, already combined clove and cinnamon oils with rose, neroli and sandalwood. An orange studded with cloves made a fragrant pomander, a Victorian token of affection. Eugenol is also a starting point for synthesising vanillin.

What else should you know about clove?

• Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, eugenol must be listed on the label above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
• Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 adds the clove oils themselves, from leaf, flower, stem and bud, to be labelled as Eugenia Caryophyllus Oil above the same thresholds.
• IFRA standards restrict eugenol in every product category, citing dermal sensitisation and systemic toxicity; the current version dates from the 51st Amendment in 2023.
• Holiday spices have their own Class, the scents of Christmas, and so does labelling, allergens and IFRA.