Geranium: the rose-scented leaf that perfumers distil

Where does geranium oil come from?

Perfumers' geranium is a pelargonium native to the Cape and Northern Provinces of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. The wild Pelargonium graveolens actually smells of mint; the rose-scented plants grown for oil are hybrids, probably crosses with P. capitatum or P. radens, often sold under the species name anyway. The botanical profile of Pelargonium graveolens notes that this rose-scented cultivar has great importance in the perfume industry and is grown on a large scale for its foliage, which is distilled.

What does geranium smell like?

Rose geranium smells of rose, and its cultivars range further, from lemony rose to minty rose. The likeness is chemical: analyses of geranium oil show citronellol, nerol and geraniol as major constituents. The chemistry entry on geraniol describes this molecule as sweet, floral, fruity, rose, waxy and citrusy, and as a primary component of rose oil.

What does geranium do in a fragrance?

Geranium belongs to the florals family but often works in other structures. In fougères, the most common additions to the basic blend of lavender, oakmoss and coumarin are vetiver and geranium. Geranium oil is also used to supplement, and sometimes to adulterate, more expensive rose oils: as early as 1819, French sources note, an oil obtained from geranium leaves, with up to 75% geraniol, served as a cheaper alternative.

What should you know about geranium?

Since Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Pelargonium graveolens oil is one of the fragrance allergens that must be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products. Geraniol was already on that list. The Class on allergens and IFRA explains how to read those labels.