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Dark grey musk deer standing among moss-covered trunks in a woodland

Class no. 16 · 6 min read

Animal notes in perfume: musk, ambergris and their substitutes

Musk, ambergris, civet and castoreum came from a musk deer, a sperm whale, a civet and a beaver, and perfumery has replaced nearly all of them with synthetic molecules since the late 19th century. You will learn where each material came from, which molecule took its place, and what "musk" means on a list of notes today.

nell.wattlein Seasons & Celebrations · Melbourne ·

Scent diary
Red incense sticks drying in fans in Vietnam, an artisan in a conical hat in the distance

A Christmas that smells of cherries and sunscreen

Okay, nerd moment: while you lot plan cinnamon and fir, my Christmas is going to smell of summer. Cherries in a bowl on the table, sunscreen, cut mango, prawns on the barbie for the brave, and the eucalyptus going sharp in the arvo heat. The Christmas bush in…

ravi.tea Brisbane checking in: mangoes. The whole house smells of them right through the holidays.

4 comments

kasia.berlinin Florals & Bouquets · Berlin ·

Question

Why nobody can sell real lily of the valley oil

At home in Poland my grandmother had lily of the valley under the kitchen window, and in spring the whole room smelled of it. I wanted a little oil of it for a cloth in my bike workshop. A man at the flea market told me there is no real one, only imitation.…

Lily of the valley Magnolia

ingrid_berlin True: the flower gives too little to extract for perfumery, so every lily of the valley note is rebuilt from synthetic molecules . You only ever hear…

7 comments

carys.cardiffin History, Bottles & Houses · Cardiff ·

Reading
Three slender lit tapers mirrored in a dark, glossy surface below them

Where Grasse's jasmine fields went

Reading the museum's page on its conservatory of fragrant plants : from the 1960s international groups bought up Grasse factories, and between 1970 and 1980 jasmine growing moved to the Nile Delta and then South India, which now produce 90% of the world's…

Jasmine Violet

rafa_azahar Jasmine is everywhere in Seville, but I did not know the fields went to Egypt and India.

2 comments

ambrose_leatherin Wearing Fragrance · Northampton ·

Scent diary
Young tobacco plant with broad pale green leaves in a field in Dordogne

Tobacco on my coat collar, still there Friday

Right then. The wool overcoat came out of the wardrobe at the weekend, first properly cold morning. On Monday I put one spray of my tobacco scent on the underside of the collar, and nothing since. It's Friday and the collar still smells of it, warm, a bit…

Tobacco

callum.peat Same with my scarf. Birch on wool lasts days, on me it's gone by the end of a shift.

3 comments

A yellow lemon and a green lime side by side on a bright white background

Class no. 15 · 7 min read

Fragrance allergens and IFRA: what the label really tells you

On a perfume sold in the European Union, the word "parfum" covers the whole formula, and only the allergens listed in the cosmetics regulation are named separately, above a set threshold. You will learn to read those names, date what the 2023 regulation added, and tell the law apart from the IFRA Standards, which never appear on the bottle.

bridie.hobartin Seasons & Celebrations · Hobart ·

Exercise
Three lit candles on a wrought-iron candelabra against a stone wall

Three apples cut open, peel against flesh

Our apples come out of cold store this time of year, it's spring here and the orchards are in blossom. You lot up north have the new crop, so here's one from the stall. Cut three different apples and smell the peel, then the flesh, then the core with the…

mags.lavender A Bramley's peel is sharp and green, a Cox smells of honey and pear drops. A lot of difference for two apples.

4 comments

harriet.hayin Wearing Fragrance · Bristol ·

Reading

The wearing Class: which habit did you drop?

Read the club's Class on how to wear fragrance, from where to spray to why you stop smelling it with a cup of tea at the garden centre, between the pumpkins and the bulb displays. The bit that caught me was topping up: I'd been adding a spray of lavender at…

Lavender

ambrose_leather Right then. Dropped: the second spray on the cuffs. Keeping: the collar, whatever anyone says. I should have read it sooner. Cheers, Ambrose

11 comments

frankie.incensein Home Fragrance & Candles · Chicago ·

Question

Sunday frankincense cone with the radiators on

Fun fact: a French public health sheet on candles, incense and indoor air says incense gives off higher concentrations of pollutants than candles, while what a candle releases hangs around in the air longer. [My high school French got a workout.] I definitely…

Frankincense

harriet.hay That same Santé.fr page on candles, incense and the air indoors gives the practical side, Frankie: air the room for at least ten minutes after…

10 comments