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joon.yuzuin Learning to Smell · Seattle ·

Reading

Read: a meta-analysis on smell training

TL;DR: training your nose does seem to work, with caveats. Read this on the bus: an open-access meta-analysis on olfactory training that pools 36 studies. What it found: - training improved overall smell function - the biggest gains were in identifying…

ingrid_berlin Identification first. That is the part we practise here.

3 comments

Small heap of white needle-shaped vanillin crystals on a dark surface

Class no. 4 · 6 min read

Natural vs synthetic fragrance: what chemistry gave perfume

Since the 1860s, perfumery has mixed natural materials with synthetic molecules, and neither is better or safer by default. You'll be able to date the molecules that changed perfume, from coumarin to Iso E Super, and read the word natural on a label without reading too much into it.

aroha.rainin Welcome to the Club · Wellington ·

Introduction
Stemmed glass filled with ice, mint leaves and lime on a grey background

Kia ora from the Wellington ferry terminal

Kia ora, I sell tickets at the ferry terminal in Wellington. It's spring here, and after a southerly the whole bush smells wet, green and a bit peppery, kawakawa leaves mostly. Pretty new to fragrance and keen to learn heaps.

Vetiver

harriet.hay Hello and welcome, aroha.rain. Spring for you while we're raking leaves in Bristol, I do love that about this club. Wet, green and peppery after rain…

6 comments

aroha.rainin Woods, Mosses & Roots · Wellington ·

Scent diary
Sandalwood chips in the steaming vat of a distillery in Egypt

Kawakawa leaves after a southerly

Kia ora, big southerly overnight and this morning the bush track behind the ferry terminal smelled heaps green. Crushed a kawakawa leaf: peppery, a bit like bay, a bit like a wet fern. Its spring here so everything is soft and new.

gus_saltmarsh Same up in Auckland, the bush behind the yard smelled like pepper and rain. Kawakawa every time.

3 comments

Potted bitter orange tree bearing sour oranges and young green fruit

Class no. 3 · 6 min read

Fragrance concentrations: from extrait to eau de Cologne

A fragrance's concentration is the share of perfume oil dissolved in alcohol: highest in an extrait, lowest in an eau de Cologne, with ranges that vary from one reference to the next. You'll learn what those names change for longevity and sillage, what they leave alone, and how to check it yourself on two blotter strips.

ingrid_berlinin Florals & Bouquets · Berlin ·

Reading

Hedione, the jasmine molecule with the bass turned down

Read the Wikipedia page on methyl dihydrojasmonate , the molecule sold as Hedione. A Firmenich chemist characterised it between 1957 and 1962, and Dior's Eau Sauvage, in 1966, was its first major commercial use. Jasmine with the bass turned down. /Ingrid

Hedione Jasmine

kasia.berlin Is this the same molecule that makes lily of the valley in perfume, or another one?

2 comments

priya.cardamomin Woods, Mosses & Roots · Toronto ·

Challenge

Describe a wood without saying 'woody'

Thread of the week: describe one wood without using the word 'woody'. 1) Pick a wood you can smell right now: a pencil, a cedar hanger, a log by the fire, a chopping board. 2) Give us three things it smells of, real things, not adjectives. 3) Name the wood at…

Cedarwood Pine and fir Birch tar

juniper_jules Hamster cage, the inside of a hope chest, my sketchbook pencil. Easy one, cedar.

8 comments