Posts
Reading about Grasse for a college project and I'm lost. Rose absolute, jasmine concrete, essential oil: are they the same thing at different strengths, or made differently?
Rose
Jasmine
nell.wattle Okay, nerd moment: made differently. According to the Wikipedia page on absolutes , the plant is first extracted with a solvent, hexane, which gives…
Found a single yuzu at the Japanese grocery on my way home and carried it like an egg. The peel smells like grapefruit with mandarin on top, sharper and more floral than a lemon. My grandmother floated whole yuzu in her bath on the winter solstice, a custom…
Yuzu
Grapefruit
Mandarin
joon.yuzu TL;DR: jealous. Yuzu is why my spreadsheet exists, and I've smelled the real fruit twice. That's my two cents.
Last rose in the school garden and a bottle of rose water from the corner shop, side by side on the staffroom table. The rose is sharp, nearly lemony. The water is sweeter and flatter, like jam that's been on the heat too long. The rose page says rose water…
Rose
mo_from_leicester The rose water on my shelf is the one everyone buys before Eid and weddings. Never once put it next to a real rose. Doing it tonight.
TL;DR: three peels, blind, and I only got the grapefruit right. Setup, if you want to copy it: - one yuzu from the Asian grocery, one lime, one grapefruit - my partner zested each into a ramekin and covered them with a paper towel - one sniff each, three…
Yuzu
Grapefruit
Lemon
orla.citrus Lime and lemon fool me every single time, so yuzu wouldn't stand a chance. Did the yuzu smell sweeter than the lime to you?
Aye, dreich afternoon and the shop quiet, so I've started wrapping the first presents early. Brown paper, string, old oak from the casks, and a wee bit of peat smoke on everything whether I like it or not.
TL;DR: it's the molecules, not my skin. Read Wikipedia's page on top, middle and base notes last night. It ranks materials on an evaporation scale: 1 to 14 for top notes such as citrus and ginger, 61 to 100 for base notes. Base notes are usually noticed about…
Yuzu
Musk
jess.in.philly This is my clean-laundry musk exactly. I thought I was imagining it on my scarf the next day.
Class no. 14 · 6 min read
Perfume has changed form three times: oils and smoke for millennia, alcohol from the 14th century, lab-made molecules from the late 19th. Here you will learn to place each milestone, from Egyptian kyphi to the glove-perfumers of Grasse, with the source that dates it.
Dabbed a strip with lemon extract from the baking cupboard this morning and by lunch it was gone. Why does lemon leave so fast?
Lemon
Vanilla
joon.yuzu Lemon is all top note. Wikipedia's article on perfume notes puts citrus among the small, volatile molecules you smell first and lose first.
Mates walk in and say the house smells of varnish and kauri gum. I smell nothing. I was away up north on a job and when I came back I got it for about a minute, then it was gone again. What's going on?
ingrid_berlin That has a name: olfactory fatigue, also called noseblindness . A smell you live with fades out, and the sensitivity comes back once you leave. Like…
Thread of the week: cardamom, two ways. Most of us have pods and a jar of ground cardamom in the cupboard, and I'm not convinced they smell like the same spice. 1) Crack one green pod and tip the seeds onto a saucer. 2) Put a pinch of the ground stuff on a…
Cardamom
ravi.tea Did it before work. Fresh seeds: sharp, nearly minty. Ground: dusty and sweeter, like the bottom of the tin.
Morning all, A few of our new members have mentioned a grandparent, so here's a lovely gentle one for everybody. My nan's dressing table had a cut-glass bottle of something violet, a powder puff that left clouds everywhere and a little dish of lavender from…
Violet
Lavender
Orange blossom
Orris
rafa_azahar On my grandmother's table in Seville there was always a bottle of orange blossom water, for the cakes and for her hair.
Total beginner. I keep reading "indolic" about jasmine and other white flowers and I have no idea what it's supposed to smell like. Can anyone put it in normal words?
Jasmine
Tuberose
harriet.hay It's one of those words that gets used far more than it gets explained. The florals family page is a handy map while the words pile up.
Something for a wet weekend indoors. Find three florals in the kitchen cupboard: rose water, orange flower water (the baking sort) and a jasmine tea bag. Put a drop of each water on a strip of kitchen roll, open the tea bag onto a saucer, and ask someone to…
Rose
Orange blossom
Jasmine
joon.yuzu Two out of three. I swapped the last two: - rose water: easy, jammy - orange flower water: I said jasmine, soap and honey - jasmine tea: I said…
Class no. 13 · 7 min read
Niche perfumery means fragrance houses that sell through selective channels to a narrower audience than the mass market: the word describes a way of selling, not a guarantee of quality. By the end of this Class you'll be able to tell niche, independent and auteur perfumery apart, and smell a fragrance without being carried away by its story.
Thread of the week: your home in three smells, right now, wherever you're sitting. 1) No candles or sprays, only what's already there. 2) One smell from the kitchen, one from the room you're in, one you only notice when you come in from outside. 3) Your own…
Cardamom
Coffee
Ginger
dex_in_brooklyn fryer oil in my hair, garlic skins in the trash, radiator hissing like a steam table. you're going to say that's three kitchens.
Thread of the week: which note leaves first? Jess asked this when she joined, so let's watch it happen instead of just reading about it. 1) Put the same scent on two paper strips, or a drop of something from the kitchen if you'd rather. 2) Smell them right…
Musk
Lemon
jess.in.philly Laundry musk reporting in. The citrusy sparkle at the top was gone before my lunch break, and the musk was still on the strip when I went to bed.
The heating came on in the library and the old stacks woke up. Warm dust, a sweetish note, something like almonds and toast. Every autumn it takes me straight back to my first day as a volunteer there.
Vanillin
kit.clove Paste, old leather and paper dust is my whole working day. The sweet note is my favourite part.
I wear a birch tar and leather scent behind the bar most nights. A regular who loves his whiskey says it gets in the way when he's nosing a glass. Fair point, or is he being precious?
Birch tar
Leather
hamish_heather Fair point. In the shop we wear nothing at all, folk come in to nose and a wee bit of birch on the staff would muddle every dram.